Topic: 899 SI machine won't pick up depth while on plane....??

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HI guys,

I have a 21ft. Contender.  24 degree deadrise.  I have 2 of the heavy duty transducers, mirroring each other for the side imaging.  It works and the SI is awesome.

The issue, I can't pick up depth when moving on plane.  I pick up at slow speed, or when the boat is not out of the hole, or when I have a little bit of bow lift at an in between speed, but basically the numbers just go crazy when I plane off and not always that fast either.   The transducers seem to not be buried in the water enough when I peak back over the stern and look - and there is also a bunch of water getting pushed up on the cowling.  If you look at the pic, you can see that a lot of the transducers are below boat level due to the V configuration.   I need to know the depth.  It's essential.    Thanks in advance.

[caskey_b]

your problem is that ducer(s) out of the water when on plane...

need to lower the ducers to get on plane readings...

do you have a stepped transom?  do you have a better more "level" picture of the back of your boat/transom?

[rnvinc]

Caskey is correct ... Your hull is just not suited well for transom mount 2d due to the hull coming out of the water at higher speeds ...

You may want to look into the XP 9 20 shoot thru with the AS SIDB Y cable setup ...

This is the most common setup scenario for high performance boat hulls ...

Rickie

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Yes.  When I look down I can see that the ducers aren't completely submerged on plane.

Does that thru hull transducer still work for side imaging?  Does everything work out with that transducer?  Where does it get mounted, in the bilge?  Wow.  Never did a thru hull anything....  It that what all the other guys with a deeper V hull do and does it traditionally work?   

I will try to put up another picture more level this evening.   I need to shrink the pic which my wife knows how to do.

[rnvinc]

The XP 9 20 T "shoot thru" is different from a true "thru hull" XTH 9 20 xducer ...

The "Thru hull" requires drilling a hole in your hull ...

The "Shoot thru" epoxies to the inside bottom of your bilge ...

The AS SIDB Y cable used in either setup is basically a splitter cable that disconnects the wire channel going to the HDSI 2d piezo ... And redirects the signal to the "shoot thru" xducer ...

So the 2d signal would always be using the xducer in the bilge ...while the SI and temp would still be coming for the transom mounted HDSI (2 HDSI in your case) ...

Here is a good guide on "shoot thru" installation ...

http://www.bbcboards.net/humminbird-sonar-gps/172972-installation-networking-information-resource.html#post1538600

Most high performance fiberglass boats (under 30' length) general opt for the "shoot thru" setup ...

Most bigger boats (think salt water big) opt for the true "Thru hull" xducers to get the xducers forward of the transom in cleaner bubble free water ...(these boats are heavy enough that there is a good sized pad of boat hull still in the water at higher speeds) ...

Lighter fast boats have very little hull actually touching the water ...making high speed readings more challenging ...

Rickie

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Hi Rickie,  Don't really need another picture since we all know the culprit for not getting 2D at any reasonable speed.  And thank you for the advice and continued advice. 
My 21 Contender is probably about 2200lb dry weight without the motor.  24 degree deadrise and deep v hull, but not really that heavy for this type of saltwater boat actually.  So does this still sound like the best scenario?  It sounds like the only scenario to me actually, but I'm just checking the particulars.   

Do the 3 transducers work together/interface together without any need to manually do anything - a switch, a menu?  Do they simply flow together? 

Last year I had to add the 2nd ducer since I only got half a screen of SI.  So now - Do I have this right - a third transducer?  And they'll all work perfectly together.

Does the 2D in a thru hole operation work pretty well from you experience?  Wow, lots to learn.

THe bilge opening/entry isn't so easy for me, plus this is a bit out of my league for install.  Do you guys recommend anyone having done this in New Jersey, Pennsylvania type area?   I need to do this right though it appears. 

I read the attachment and will go over it more thoroughly when the kids hit the sack.  Thank you. 

[rnvinc]

The AS SIDB Y cable setup is plug and play ... Even with your dual xducer setup ...

The AS SIDB Y cable is clearly marked ...
*1 leg is marked "Side Image" ... It will connect to the single connector of your AS SILR Y cable ...
*1 leg is marked "Dual Beam" ... It will connect to the "shoot thru" XP 9 20 epoxied in your bilge ...
*The remaining leg will plug into your head unit ...

There are no switches ...nor will any settings need to be changed for this setup ...

This setup is merely cable routing and the head unit will see this as one single Hi-Def SI xducer ...

If you follow the steps in the link ... With emphasis on the pre-test location before epoxying ... You will be fine ...

The pre-test location should give confirmation that the spot you have picked will work after epoxying ...

There should be no noticeable difference in 2d performance because fiberglass and epoxy have about the same acoustic transfer characteristics as water ...

Rickie

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Hi Rickie,

I think the worst part is that if I have it done professionally, which will end up happening, I may not be able to do all the tests you are referring to.  I can ask and try to find someone to do so.  Labor could get ugly.  Not your problem though.

Alas, do I need to order any other parts from HB than these:   XP 9 20 shoot thru with the AS SIDB Y cable setup ...

[rnvinc]

do I need to order any other parts from HB than these:   XP 9 20 shoot thru with the AS SIDB Y cable setup ...

This should be all you need ...

Rickie

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THank you.  Just have to find the right installer.  Too much for me.  Thank you.

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New issue with current plan:   The shoot thru transducer doesn't have the proper angle according to my installer.  That is: my boat is deep v with no flat spots so I need something with a 20 degree angle.   

Or he suggested I get a thru hull transducer in the 20 degree angle category.  Can you tell me what part that would be and do I still use the same spitter cable as aforementioned.

Always fun. Thank you all.

[rnvinc]

New issue with current plan:   The shoot thru transducer doesn't have the proper angle according to my installer.  That is: my boat is deep v with no flat spots so I need something with a 20 degree angle.   

Or he suggested I get a thru hull transducer in the 20 degree angle category.  Can you tell me what part that would be and do I still use the same spitter cable as aforementioned.

Always fun. Thank you all.

This seems to indicate you would need to cut your own faring block for any true "thru hull" ...

http://www.humminbird.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=2829

Just to be sure, I think you should call HB ...1-800-633-1468

Rickie

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Hi guys,

Humminbird techs didn't have anything more to offer on the highlighted subject of the fairing block.  My professional installer is on vacation so I can't get him.

Shop A Tron will not take the return on the opened package for the shoot thru and says there is some "residue." From when the installer tried to see if it would work? 

It just keeps getting more expensive without an end result/outcome

Yes, I saw that the 250.00 bronze thru hull didn't come with a fairing block so it needs to be handled by the installer and custom made, correct?   The fairing blocks from other companies is probably not compatible correct?   


I've been patient getting to my third transducer, but I'm getting frustrated now........Stinks. Thanks for the help guys.

[rnvinc]

I would 1st pre-install test the XP 9 20 as outlined in the installation link from bbc.forums that I posted previously ...

Test the xducer on the deadrise (don't forget to add water to the bilge) ...and compare the depth reading with just hanging the XP 9 20 over the side in the water ...

Then rig a way to tilt the xducer to level with just one edge of the xducer on the "inside bilge side of the deadrise" (don't forget to add water to the bilge) ...test this scenario ...

If neither of the 2 tests above get satisfactory results ...I think I would go for this cheaper option and build my own fairing block ...

http://www.humminbird.com/Products/XFM-9-20/

And there is the option of obtaining a tank setup for shoot-thru application (which basically does the same as adding water to the bilge but it's a more permanent setup) ...

I would definitely exhaust all options before cutting a hole in the hull ...

Rickie