Humminbird Side Imaging Forums
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: Ringgoldranger on April 01, 2015, 06:42:21 PM
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Just curios as to how you know if through hull transducer is set correct with no air hubbles
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It will work properly. No other way to tell.
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If your 2d views show a hard thick red line at the top of the display that won't go away no matter what sensitivity setting or noise filter adjustment ...
And like Bob said ... Performance in 2d would be yuk ...
Rickie
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Maybe I should back up a bit. I mounted an 1199, with a through hull transducer with y cable. If I understand correctly all that transducer is supposed to do is read depth while on plane. Is that correct?
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That is what is designed to do. Have you already installed it? Bob
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Yes sir it is in. I guess I'm just paranoid. Trying to learn and get used to SI and the other options. Went yesterday and it read the depth fine
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Maybe I should back up a bit. I mounted an 1199, with a through hull transducer with y cable. If I understand correctly all that transducer is supposed to do is read depth while on plane. Is that correct?
There’s a little more to it than that. The through hull transducer (I like the term “inside-the-hull”) is responsible for all 2D sonar (200kHz and 83kHz) for your 1199 unit and not just depth while on plane.
Since you have two transducers on your boat that have the same 2D sonar capabilities; try comparing the readings you get from each of them. Unplug the AS-Si-DB-Y cable and get out on your local lake and plug and unplug each transducer to/from the 1199 unit and compare the results. Try this at different water depths, especially in very deep water (if you have any). Pay particular attention to both the thickness and color of both the zero line/water’s surface as Rickie stated and the bottom reading. If you did a good job of installing the inside-the-hull transducer you will see little difference. Any air bubbles within the epoxy you used or in the layers of the hull itself will decrease the strength of the sonar returns seen as well as possibly causing a thick band at the water’s surface as Rickie stated.
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Thanks for the help- I will try that next trip out. I guess I don't trust myself. I like to know the equipment. So the SI tranducer is responsible for what reading other that SI. I'm a little confused and may have misunderstood what the guy who sold me the units said. There was some debate on whether the in hull transducer was needed.
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When using the AS-Si-DB-Y splitter cable the only connections to the Si transducer are for water temperature and the Si sonar. Since your 1199 uses the Si sonar to produce the Di sonar you get Water Temperature, Si sonar and Di sonar from the Si transducer. The conventional 2D sonar always comes from the inside-the-hull transducer. The AS-Si-DB-Y cable is just that; a cable with wiring inside. It does not switch or change transducers in any way but merely redirects what transducer is connected to for the 2D sonar.
Many Si unit owners go with the inside-the-hull transducer and AS-Si-DB-Y transducer for one or two reasons: 2D sonar performance at on-plane speeds and protection of the expensive Si transducers. Generally the best high-speed water depth readings are obtained from an inside-the-hull transducer as the area where these are installed is the last part of the boat to lift free from the water when running at high speeds. Sonar does not have the ability to read through air very well, so mounting the transducer in the location that remains in contact with the water at the fastest boat speeds is best for high-speed water depth readings. Depending on the boat, installing a transom mount transducer that reads at high boat speeds could lead to water flow and/or handling issues at those high boat speeds. Then there are all those floating logs, stumps and rocks which can destroy a transducer. With the large HDSi transducer costing $200+ to replace, locating it up higher on the transom can help save that replacement expense.
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For the most part that's what I understood. I thought the in hull didn't start reading till the si transducer couldn't read since it's out of water - when on plane. I did a lot of scanning yesterday and it was showing fish/bait structure well along side of SI.
I think it's mounted right. It's just in a hard to get to place in my boat. The installation story is longer than I care to share, but the epoxy application was done by someone else. I'm sure I'm just being paranoid.
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With the "Y" cable all 2D sonar is from the in hull and SI/DI is from the transom mount hdsi. The Y cable just uses the pins from the in hull for 2d and the SI/DI from the hdsi.All the time,No switching. Bob
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If your 2D sonar is showing good fish/bait as you stated I think you are good-to-go.
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You guys are very helpful. Thanks to you both
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Figured I would jump on this tread. When I did my 2d shoot-thru install my results were a solid red line reading for the first foot on the screen and good return below that. I adjusted my range on my 2D to start at 5ft. It works just fine and I get good reading WOT. I did not have many options with regard to placement for my 2D but so far I am happy with the results.
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jbrady, sometimes that solid red line can be surface clutter. I see that you are from PC, FL. so you may want to try running the 200kHz only (83kHz picks up surface clutter worse than the 200kHz) and possibly adjust your Water Type menu to one of the Salt settings.
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jbrady, sometimes that solid red line can be surface clutter. I see that you are from PC, FL. so you may want to try running the 200kHz only (83kHz picks up surface clutter worse than the 200kHz) and possibly adjust your Water Type menu to one of the Salt settings.
I will try the 200khz only and see what the results are. I normally use both low/high kHz when fishing in over 100ft of water. I fish only saltwater so the only change I make is shallow or deep. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Oops! Should have added that you can always try adjusting the Surface Clutter menu... :-[