Humminbird Side Imaging Forums
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: CharlieSea on February 28, 2014, 09:24:44 PM
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I just purchased a Shamrock Pilot House. I took my 800 series off my old boat. I have the side imaging transducer and Im wondering where the best place to mount it would be. Im thinking on the very outside of the trim tab very end of the transom to try and get the best clearance from the wash ext. Has anyone mounted one and tried it on a keel drive boat if so what's the verdict? Advice?
Thanks
Charlie
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Can you post some pix of your transom ... Both from the rear and each side with the camera at xducer level...??
I'm sure some will have beneficial suggestions ...
Rickie
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Ok here are some photos. I'm planning on a 2" block between the transducer and the hull as a standoff so the rudder is out of the way. I'm looking for the best side and place to mount it. I believe I want it on the starboard side opposed prop rotation right?
(http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k360/Foamsucker/ebc4b2dd-0258-4a42-ad24-0054cc0257ab_zps434cdeba.jpg)
(http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k360/Foamsucker/image2_zpscddadecb.jpeg)
(http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k360/Foamsucker/image1_zpsba11bfb4.jpeg)
Thanks for any help.
Charlie
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I don't see anywhere on that transom to mount a SI transducer. The prop wash will get one side and the trim tab the other.
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The transducer will be below the trim tabs and I hear if you put it on the opposite side of rotation it will work? Is that bad info? SI will only be needed at 3-4mph basically idle in gear on this boat.
I'm going to try it just looking for advice on the best place to try it.
Charlie
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Because the transducer will be behind the prop, the turbulence will block one side of the transmitted signal regardless of which side you choose.
In this case, I don't think the prop rotation makes any difference.
To clear the trim tab, you would need to mount it lower to get under the tab. Even then, as Rickard has shown, the signal isn't a straight line.
I could be wrong. Wait for more feedback.
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Recently I read in another thread somewhere (maybe another forum, I don't remember) that the guy had a similar problem.
He mounted (2) SI transducers, one on the right and one on the left. Then somehow he blended the signals together. Maybe Bird has a wiring harness for this, (AS SILR Y)??, or you may need to do some manual cable splicing.
Give HB CS a call and they will recommend a cable. if one's available.
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HB has that SI "Y" cable. If it were me I would see what SI looks like with one transducer before spending on cable and additional HDSI ducer. Bob
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Ok Ill give it a try on the opposite side of rotation with a 2" spacer and let you know what it looks like. Im just looking for structure from charts so one side might be enough for me to do this but not ideal. Ill post back what I find. My thought was at idle speeds the prop wash might be low enough the ducer might blow through it. Even if I get a not so great image but can see the structure it will do. I don't think I will have much of an issue with the trim tabs they will be up and the ducer will be 3-4" below them at least.
Another option I was thinking about was just a clamp mount over the side.
If it is as you say and I wont see the other side of the boat at all I might consider the Y and the second ducer.
Thanks for the input and help if someone has a link or access to the Y let me know.
Charlie
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AS SIDB Y | Cables | 720055-1
Y Cable - Side Imaging and Dual Beam - allows you to use two transducers on one unit without the use of a transducer switch. For use with Side Imaging products only, in conjunction with a dual beam transducer only. For improved high speed performance for bottom tracking.
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AS SIDB Y | Cables | 720055-1
Y Cable - Side Imaging and Dual Beam - allows you to use two transducers on one unit without the use of a transducer switch. For use with Side Imaging products only, in conjunction with a dual beam transducer only. For improved high speed performance for bottom tracking.
Just a slight variance in that verbiage...the AS SILR Y cable will work without an added Dual Beam xducer...
Right SI , temperature, and 2d would come from the right mounted HDSI..
Left SI would come from the left mounted HDSI xducer ...
Rickie
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Charlie
Watch carefully on the cable numbers. Bob has AS SID"B" Y
Rickie has AS SIL"R" Y
Rickie's is for 2 side image transducers. That's the one you want.
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Thanks Rickie, I copied the wrong info. Bob
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Thanks Rickie, I copied the wrong info. Bob
All these HB numbers tend to run together....
Greg has caught several of my mis-model number- quotes...:)
We all watch each other's backs here...
Rickie
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Thanks for the info guys that’s very helpful. I’m trying to install the transducer. On my other boat I have it going over the transom. On this boat I have to go through the transom. In the manual it says cut a big hole to feed the cable connector through? Is there an easy way to just drill a small hole and take the cable off the connector or would splicing be required? I want to go below the swim step so thats below the water line so rather not cut a 3/4" hole there.
Charlie
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Charlie,
The transducer connector is molded on when the cable is made. The only option you have would be to cut and splice the cable back together. You need to make sure that you can do this as the transducer will have to be replaced should it not work when you are done (and the unit could potentially be damaged if mis-wired). The transducer cable has multiple wires within it, some of which are paired and shielded, plus the whole bundle has a noise shield around it. You would have to make sure and solder and seal each connection plus the whole cable when you are done. If you are set on doing this I would cut the cable at a length where the spliced joint will not be in the water.
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Ok I’m good at soldering are all the wires different colors in there? How many are there and is there a shielding or substitute available I can use to replace over the soldered connections? I’ve looked at a bunch of towfish posts but cant find any with a simple splicing how to. If you have a link to one that would be a big help in deciding on cutting or drilling ;D
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All the wires (seven of them) have different colors. There are two twisted pair wires with foil shielding around each of them. All five wires have another foil shield around them. What I have done in the past is cut several inches of wire off so that I will have some foil shield to overlap the soldered and sealed connections. I also took that opportunity to stagger the individual splices so that they were not all at the same place. It makes it easier to get the overall shield and the final heat shrink tubing in place.
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Ok I was thinking about the staggering thing. You have described what I needed to hear and that is very helpful. There is a forum for my boat make (Shamrock) and I got info that others have installed this same model on their transom with a spacer on the opposite side rotation and IS working fairly well. Others have mounted the transducer on the keel in a housing just infront of the shaft with great results (too big of a project for me right now). Once I get this installed and tested, Ill post what I get with the single transducer and go from there.
Thank you this is a great forum.
Charlie
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Charlie
Glad to see others have had a good installation on your boat. My initial concern of turbulence and blockage must have been wrong.
Good luck and hopefully it will be successful.
Mike
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There is this option for xducer cable splicing...
http://www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/InstallGuide/17-037-01.pdf (http://www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/InstallGuide/17-037-01.pdf)
Rickie
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Guys just getting back to you on this incase anyone else has this type of boat and want SI to work. I used 2 square pieces of 1" Delrin. The first piece I attached to the transom just to the inside of the Starbord trim tab. I put a slight angle on the bottom of the piece to come as close to the boat bottom flush/angle as I could. The second piece was screwed into the first piece (all screws were counter sunk about 1/3 the way into the Delrin. I then mounted the transducer to this. The result was a better SI then I had on my outboard boat even with the motor trimmed way up.
Its working perfect on the Shamrock at idle and good up to about 800-900rpms. I'm STOKED!
Charlie
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Thanks for the followup on this problem. On some occasions, advice and possible solutions have been offered with no response from the
poster on the results. Very happy to hear of your outcome.
Mike
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When I have a chance Ill post up a pic of the install. I always try and give back on these forums when I can. I get so much good info and help for FREE its the least I can do.
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Thanks. That is how many of us have learned. Your install sounds creative.
Mike
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What the heck I just went out and took some pics here is what the install looks like:
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/CharlieSea/image1.jpeg)
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/CharlieSea/image3.jpeg)
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/CharlieSea/image.jpeg)
(http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/CharlieSea/image2.jpeg)
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Real Estate and transducers have this in common...... location,location,location.
Mike