Author Topic: Power Connection? (Read 26145 times)

braveheart · « **on:** March 02, 2010, 01:46:07 PM »

I admit that I am electronically challenged. I'm trying to figure out a way to power my unit in the house. I read the posts describing converters/sources that others are using, but i couldn't tell how they connected to the back of the HB unit. I have the 797 C2. It has 4 connections on the back; a 2 pin, 4 pin, 6 pin, and 7 pin. Which of these is for the power source?

sonar2000 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 02, 2010, 01:55:44 PM »

go to chat and we will talk this over. chuck

RGecy · « **Reply #2 on:** March 02, 2010, 02:33:30 PM »

braveheart,

Most guys will buy an extra HB power cord for the house so you dont have to disconnect the one on the boat. A PC-10 will do just fine. Personally, I use a 12v 1amp transformer that plugs into an outlet. I had an extra one around the house and cut the little plug off the end and spliced it together with the PC-10 power cord. You need to make sure you get the +/- connections right. Radio Shack sells them!

Some of the other guys have gone and bought 12 converters with screw on terminals so they just connect the PC-10 cable right to pos and neg terminals.

Either way works fine. You would also want to put on an inline fuse just in case you get a short or power surge!

Good Luck,

RGec

sonar2000 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 02, 2010, 04:16:32 PM »

The 2 pin connector is power connector. it should be red/black cable. The red is the positive. dont forget the fuse on the red. still trying to find a picture. chuck....

braveheart · « **Reply #4 on:** March 02, 2010, 06:29:35 PM »

Thanks guys, for your info. Since my unit is already installed in the boat, I will order a new power cord from HB. Based on Robert's post, Radio Shack sells the transformers ( 12v 1amp). Then I think I need to splice the PC10 cable onto the transformer cable. Still not sure how to get a fuse on there, but I bet the folks at Radio Shack can tell me. Thanks again for all your help!

George · « **Reply #5 on:** March 02, 2010, 08:53:50 PM »

Braveheart

I have been using a transformer for the last 6 months and like it. Don't forget to put an in line fuse just in case there is a power surge.

George

Humminbird_Greg · « **Reply #6 on:** March 03, 2010, 07:59:02 AM »

A PC-10 cable spliced onto a transformer that outputs 12V at 1 amp is a good idea. The power connector is the 2-pin connector on the back of all of our units. In the drawing below the upper most pin on the power connector (the one with the beveled corners) is the positive pin and the square shaped one is the negative pin.

sonar2000 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 03, 2010, 02:32:25 PM »

greg, thank for the phone call. and thanks for finding the picture. It might be nice if the picture would also show the + and the - on the two pin. Chuck

stillbear · « **Reply #8 on:** March 03, 2010, 06:51:39 PM »

Brave heart the top pin is the hot pin or red wire bottom pin is ground

Humminbird_Greg · « **Reply #9 on:** March 03, 2010, 10:06:18 PM »

This better Chuck?

sonar2000 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 04, 2010, 08:39:26 AM »

Fantastic Greg. You are the man. Wonder if we should put this in the pictures section of the image gallery. See ya Friday.. Chuck

Llunker · « **Reply #11 on:** March 04, 2010, 02:32:30 PM »

Hey I had alot of plugs(a/c adapters) laying around that were different volts and they powered different items. I tried to find one that the output was 12 - 18v --i Tried two different ones and i cut the wire and tried them both ways and could not get a picture with my 997c SI -- Anyone have a picture of the Radioshack item you are talking about? the 12v 1amp transformer--is it different than any ordinary 12v A/C to D/C adapter plug?

Let me know as i would like to use that instead of my 12v Jump Starter battery.

Thanks

sonar2000 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 04, 2010, 02:52:24 PM »

Lunk, make sure the transformers were DC volts out. There are 12-18 volts ac xformers. It must be DC for the xformerr to power your unit. Also the dc volts out should say .5 amp or some such value. Most will be in ma amps. chuck.

RGecy · « **Reply #13 on:** March 04, 2010, 04:45:00 PM »

Radio Shack has changed some of their inventory over the last year or so. Here is another one I found on the internet.

http://www.12vadapters.com/adapter/power-supply/12v/1-amp-1a.html

I always save old transformers cause you never know when you may need an extra one. I imagine you have one somewhere from an old phone or electronic device that would work. On the transformer you should see some specifications. What you need to look for is:

Output: 12v - 1amp or higher (could also say 1000ma, ma = milliamp)

Good Luck,

Robert

sonar2000 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 04, 2010, 05:50:45 PM »

robert you should have been in the chat room. lunk and I talked for about 45 minutes. he is up and working. his xformers were not giving enough amps. they were like 25ma or so. Not enough to drive the unit. he found a connector to go in his powwerpack and he is up and running. He posted a bunch of smiles. chuck

Llunker · « **Reply #15 on:** March 04, 2010, 08:39:18 PM »

Robert =-please check your Messages about my forum profile. Thanks

braveheart · « **Reply #16 on:** March 05, 2010, 11:22:20 AM »

Quote from: Humminbird_Greg on March 03, 2010, 07:59:02 AM

A PC-10 cable spliced onto a transformer that outputs 12V at 1 amp is a good idea. The power connector is the 2-pin connector on the back of all of our units. In the drawing below the upper most pin on the power connector (the one with the beveled corners) is the positive pin and the square shaped one is the negative pin.

Thanks Greg and others for your input. I went to Radio Shack and talked to a guy there who helped me figure out a system. I got a 12VDC 1.5 A Power Adapter for $25. Got an extra HB PC-10 power cord. The power adapter has a built in fuse. Hooked them up and it works great!

Humminbird_Greg · « **Reply #17 on:** March 05, 2010, 08:32:43 PM »

Excellent!

sonar2000 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 07, 2010, 10:54:39 AM »

I wonder if Humminbird might consider selling a power cord with cigeratte lighter connnection. Greg, pass this by your R&D guy and see if he can spark an idea. Chuck

RGecy · « **Reply #19 on:** March 07, 2010, 05:08:01 PM »

Quote from: sonar2000 on March 07, 2010, 10:54:39 AM

I wonder if Humminbird might consider selling a power cord with cigeratte lighter connnection. Greg, pass this by your R&D guy and see if he can spark an idea. Chuck

You could always buy a cigarett lighter adapter that has clips on it or splice it, just like the 12v transformer! They are pretty cheap also!

Robert

Llunker · « **Reply #20 on:** March 07, 2010, 05:26:32 PM »

Well I have a jump start pack and it came with a plug in style cigeratte lighter for 12v power. I simply clipped off the end found the pos and neg with the use of a multimeter and then wired it temporarily to the other end of the PC 10 cable and plugged it in to my 12v portion of my jump pack--worked like a charm and it has a 2a fuse so no need for inline fuse since the 12v DC charging cable has one built into it.

I just ordered another PC 10 Cable (on ebay for like $11.99 with free shipping) for just home use-- as thats why i said it was temporary connection. When I get this extra power cord in I will solder in the connections and then shrink wrap em for a nice look. I should make a business out of making these connections and sell them!!!! hmmm!!! HEHEHEHEHEHEH

Hope this helps ya bud

Bobby

sonar2000 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 08, 2010, 08:24:27 AM »

You might be on to something Bobby. Every thing is there except the solder shrinkwrap. you are on the road to the next millionaire.

chuck

bjbradshaw · « **Reply #22 on:** March 08, 2010, 08:40:54 PM »

I am obviously new to the forums, but can I ask about a DC output @13.7 volts? I see all the refs to 12V, but my 1197 reports voltage of 13.5 ish when the motor is running? Wondering because I have an existing DC converter 13.7V @ 4 Amps.

RGecy · « **Reply #23 on:** March 08, 2010, 08:52:41 PM »

Acceptable input voltage range is 10-20VDC.

You will be fine at the 13.4V, just make sure you put an inline fuse on the + connection.

Robert

sonar2000 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 09, 2010, 07:34:59 AM »

when using external power supplies the output voltage can vary and as Robert said between 10 to 20 Volts D C. Make sure if using external D C power that the output is also at least 1.5 amps. Most units will not power up if less than 1.2. As robert pointed out if you use external power make sure to fuse the positive (red) lead at 3 amp. chuck

Jolly Roger · « **Reply #25 on:** March 09, 2010, 01:46:10 PM »

bjbradshaw,

the 13,5ish Voltage which is shown on your unit when your motor is running is the loading voltage of your alternator. So you're good to go from both sides: The unit has enough juice to run and your alternator brings enough power to load your batteries

.

Regards / Harry

AZfisherdude · « **Reply #26 on:** March 10, 2010, 05:15:31 PM »

Quote from: sonar2000 on March 09, 2010, 07:34:59 AM

when using external power supplies the output voltage can vary and as Robert said between 10 to 20 Volts D C. Make sure if using external D C power that the output is also at least 1.5 amps. Most units will not power up if less than 1.2. As robert pointed out if you use external power make sure to fuse the positive (red) lead at 3 amp. chuck

Hi, I just picked up a power supply fr4om radio shack for 25 bucks. Seems like a lot to pay for something like that but watcha gonna do? Anyway, I have a power cord from my old 141c that I think will work? Can anyone verify that it will? Also, the power supply is a 12 volt 1.5 amp but how do I know which wire is positive? If I take a pic of it and upload it will that help to identify the positive wire? I have a 798ci si unit that I am dying to mess with but I am not knowledgeable when it comes to electricity. I'd be really bummed to mess up my unit. Any help is appreciated. Oh, I also have an inline fuse holder and some 3 amp glass fuses to put on the positive side.
Thanks, Chris

sonar2000 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 10, 2010, 05:20:48 PM »

Chris, if the output leads are not red/black, then it will need to be checked with a dc volt meter, red is normally positive and black is negative. better safe than sorry. you will fuse the positive lead.
chuck

AZfisherdude · « **Reply #28 on:** March 10, 2010, 05:41:43 PM »

Hey Chuck, thanks for the quick response. Yeah, the red black thing I am good with. Even house wiring with the black, white. This cord is simply all white with a black stripe on one of them. I have a meter thing but not real sure how to use it. I guess I'll bust out the manual and get it figured out from there. It's funny, cause I didn't even think of that but right before I came in here my Grandma said the same thing to me.
Thanks again, I'll let you know how it goes....

Humminbird_Greg · « **Reply #29 on:** March 10, 2010, 06:35:28 PM »

AZ,
On most multi-meters the red lead should be connected to the positive wire (which I am going to guess is the one with the stripe on it) and the black lead is goes to the negative.

There is some reverse voltage protection in our units so you should be safe it if gets connected backwards (it just won't turn on is all) but I wouldn't leave t connected backwards for more than a few seconds.

sonar2000 · « **Reply #30 on:** March 10, 2010, 06:40:18 PM »

also when you connect the meter it should not make a differenc in leads. if you read 12volts the red lead of the meter will be on the positive lead of the power supply. if is is not then the meter will read -12 volts. that will let you know the red lead of the meter is on the negative lead of the power supply. when i say 12 volts it could read any where from 12 volts to 18 volts. chuck

AZfisherdude · « **Reply #31 on:** March 10, 2010, 09:24:11 PM »

Thanks guys. I feel better knowing I am not going to simply blow up my thousand dollar toy (I had to go through some hoops to afford it).
I have a multimeter. Will that work?
Assuming it will, do I set the dial onto the mA AC/DC or V AC/DC?
The other settings say Hz DUTY, and an upside down horseshoe looking thing which I think is ohms?
Last question (I think), I can check the wires while it is plugged into the wall right?
I mean I strip some wire from the end that I cut off and test those while they are plugged into the wall outlet? I know not to touch the wires but I just want to be sure that the current traveling through the multimeter isn't going to be a problem from the adapter. In other words will I get shocked? LOL. I've been shocked from hot house wires before and am not eager to do it again

Thanks so much for the help!

AZfisherdude · « **Reply #32 on:** March 10, 2010, 11:35:37 PM »

OK, I spent some time on the phone with a friend who was an electrician and got this thing figured out. I got my unit powered up!!! Thanks so much for the help and advice. The cord from my 141c doesn't fit quite well so I'll have to get a proper one but otherwise it is good.

Llunker · « **Reply #33 on:** March 11, 2010, 06:10:35 AM »

As soon As my new Power PC 10 cable comes in and I make the Connections I will make a write up on the power connection.

It will be the cheapest to make and you wont need to worry about a 3a inline fuse as the Cigarette lighter portion that plugs in already has a 2a fuse in it.

I will make instructions and post them here for the detailed build of one of these power connections.

I do have one photo to start things off with.

If you have a Jump Pack or if you have an adapter at home for the wall socket you can make your own DC charger out of 12v DC charging cable like this one.

Notice I just cut off the connection on the end and split the wires. Connected it up to electrical power(checked the connection with my multifunction volt meter) and made sure the Black/white wire was the Positive side and sure enough i got a reading of +12.76v. instead of -12.76v. So I know for sure the positive side is the Black/white wire--which is the correct connection 95% of the time.

When my PC 10 cable gets here I plan on Soldering the connections in with Shrink wrap down and away from the hot cable. Then slide them up and over the bare connections and simply heat them up and make a nice looking and professional connection. Soldering of a connection is the best, Clipping a connection or what some people call crimping a connection is second best.

Here is a photo of the connection to power at my home with a jump pack sitting next to my office desk--but the connection is made and it works with no problems--I don't have the PC 10 cable inline on this photo --but you get the general idea

Oh and BTW if you were observant in the photo-you will notice two pieces of paper-which are my Registration papers for my Auto's that are about 4 months old now--if someone would like to donate $52.80 for the Benz, and $67.50 for the Truck i would really appreiciate it very much---i am just too lazy to go down to the court house and get it done--hahahahahhehehehehehahhaha

Like i said I will get all instruction made out for those that want it and what i did to make the connections.

Hope this helps for now

Bobby

sonar2000 · « **Reply #34 on:** March 11, 2010, 07:58:32 AM »

good follow up and pictures are always the time. You have done very well with the multimeter and you are on the right track with solder and shrink wrap. Good job Bobby. Chuck

Fay · « **Reply #35 on:** February 18, 2012, 04:28:07 PM »

From reading all of the above it looks like I will be safe using a 120vac to 12vdc transformer.
The output voltage reads 16.5vdc and that had me worried but it looks like I am ok. It is only
rated at 1 amp though. Would that be enough for a 798 unit? thanks in advance - Fay

sonar2000 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 18, 2012, 04:55:37 PM »

1 amp will run it.

chuck

stillbear · « **Reply #37 on:** February 18, 2012, 05:11:18 PM »

Yes 750 m/a will drive it. I use 3 amp 13.8 volt power supply from radio shack with a built in 3 amp fuse.
HB power plug cable on one an Lowrance power plug cable on one. For updates an playing. Gary

Kidott429 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 18, 2012, 05:15:27 PM »

Transformers only put out ac, anyone hooking one up needs a 12vdc power supply, not a transformer.

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Author Topic: Power Connection? (Read 26145 times)

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